Fancy Diamond Shapes: A Complete Guide to Fancy-Cut Diamonds
Diamonds come in many shapes, but any shape other than the classic round brilliant is known as a fancy-cut diamond. These unique cuts allow jewelers to create engagement rings and jewelry with distinctive silhouettes, personality, and visual appeal.
Fancy diamond shapes are increasingly popular for engagement rings because they offer individuality and often appear larger than round diamonds of the same carat weight.
Whether you love the elegance of an emerald cut or the brilliance of an oval diamond, this guide will help you understand the most popular fancy diamond shapes and how to choose the right one.
What Is a Fancy-Cut Diamond?
A diamonds shape refers to the geometric appearance of a diamond and are categorized into two groups: round diamonds and fancy shape diamonds. A fancy-cut diamond refers to any diamond shape that is not round brilliant.
Common fancy diamond shapes include: oval, cushion, emerald, pear, heart, marquise, princess, radiant, and asscher.
Round diamonds dominate the market because their 58-facet structure maximizes brilliance, but fancy shapes provide a distinctive look that many buyers prefer.
Oval Cut Diamonds
Let's start with one of our most popular fancy diamond cuts, the elegant oval.
Oval cuts can vary greatly in proportions - from a more elongated, narrow shape to a rounder cut oval.
Because of their brilliant faceting pattern, ovals often hide inclusions well. You can comfortably start in the Slightly Included (SI1-SI2) clarity range and go from there.
All ovals have whats called a "bow-tie" in the center of the stone; it's a dark, bow-tie shaped shadow that occurs when light is lost through the bottom of the diamond. Look for an oval diamond with a minimal bowtie effect in order to maximize sparkle and light. An oval diamond with excellent-very good symmetry and polish grades will help minimize the bowtie effect.
What we love about them:
- Brilliant sparkle similar to round diamonds
- Elongated shape that flatters the finger
- Appears larger than its carat weight
The Princess Cut
Princess cut diamonds are square brilliant cuts that offer exceptional sparkle. They developed in the late 20th century and quickly became a modern classic.
A well-cut princess interacts with light beautifully and flashes bright streams of light.
Princess cuts have distinct corners that require a little extra protection - we always recommend 4 prongs or a bezel setting to maximize security.
Princess-cut diamonds are also the perfect diamond for a channel band; the square cut gives the appearance of a river of diamonds set between the gold.
What we love about them:
Modern geometric shape
Strong brilliance
The Pear Cut
Pear diamonds combine the round brilliant and marquise shape into a graceful teardrop silhouette. Romantic and flattering - the pear cut is a versatile way to add fancy shapes into both your wedding set and your everyday jewelry collection.
Pears have a wide bottom lobe and a pointed tip, so it's important to have a setting that protects the point on the top.
What we love about them:
Elegant and eye-catching
Elongates the finger
Popular for pendants and engagement rings
The Emerald Cut
Emerald cut diamonds feature step-cut facets that create a distinctive “hall of mirrors” effect. Because the facets are larger and more transparent, emerald cuts often require higher clarity diamonds.
Start in a higher clarity grade, and play around with the color to maximize your carat weight and avoid eye-visible inclusions.
What we love about them:
Clean lines and refined elegance
Highlights diamond clarity
The Marquise Cut
A diamond out of a storybook; the marquise diamond is an elongated cut with points at both ends.
The name "marquise" comes from a legend about King Louis XIV of France, who is said to have commissioned a jeweler to create a diamond that resembled the lips of his mistress, the Marquise de Pompadour.
They are a modified brilliant cut, meaning they have 57 triangular and kite-shaped facets. They are often a more affordable option per carat than a round or oval cut, so they can be a great option if you're looking for a more unique cut in a higher carat weight.
What we love about them:
- Maximizes surface area
- Appears larger per carat
- Dramatic vintage look
-
Because of their elongated silhouette, marquise diamonds can create the illusion of longer fingers.
The Radiant Cut
The radiant cut diamond is celebrated for its bold shape and exceptional brilliance. Introduced in the 1970s, this diamond combines the elegant outline of an emerald cut with the sparkle of a brilliant cut.
With its trimmed corners and 70 facets, the radiant cut is designed to maximize light reflection, creating vibrant fire and sparkle.
Its versatile shape works beautifully in both square and rectangular proportions, making it a popular choice for engagement rings and modern jewelry designs.
Things we love about them:
• Exceptional sparkle and brilliance
• Modern square or rectangular shape
• Trimmed corners that add durability
• Appears larger than many diamonds of the same carat weight
• Beautiful in solitaire, halo, and three-stone settings
A Few More of Our Favorites
The Asscher Cut Diamond
The Asscher cut diamond is admired for its vintage elegance and striking geometric design. Originally developed in 1902 by the Asscher family in Amsterdam, this distinctive square diamond features step-cut facets that create a mesmerizing “hall of mirrors” effect. With its high crown, deep pavilion, and clipped corners, the Asscher cut offers a refined, architectural look that highlights the diamond’s clarity and symmetry.
The Heart Shaped Diamond
For the romantic at heart, ask us about heart-cut diamonds for your engagement ring or for your jewelry collection!
The Cushion Cut Diamond
When you love the look of a radiant, but you want softer edges. The cushion has a pillowy appearance and you can play with proportions on a cushion-cut quite a bit to find the one that you truly love!
How to Choose the Best Diamond Shape
When selecting a fancy-cut diamond, consider the following expert tips.
1. Length-to-Width Ratio: Some shapes can appear longer or wider depending on the cut. Ideal ratios often include: Oval: 1.35–1.50, Emerald: 1.30–1.60, and Marquise: 1.75–2.00. The best ratio ultimately depends on personal preference.
2. Sparkle vs Elegance: Different diamond shapes emphasize different visual qualities.
Brilliant-cut shapes (more sparkle): Oval, Cushion, Radiant, Pear.
Step-cut shapes (clean elegance): Emerald and Asscher.
3. Finger Shape: Some diamonds create a more elongated look. Best shapes for this effect includes: oval, marquise, pear, and emerald. These shapes are especially popular for engagement rings.
4. Budget: Fancy shapes often cost less per carat than round diamonds because cutters can retain more of the original rough stone. This allows buyers to choose a larger diamond for the same budget.
FAQ: Fancy Diamond Shapes
What is the most popular fancy diamond shape?
The Emerald cut and oval cut are among the most popular fancy diamond shapes for engagement rings.
Which diamond shape looks the largest?
Marquise, oval, and pear diamonds often appear larger than round diamonds due to their elongated shape.
Which diamond shape sparkles the most?
Brilliant-cut shapes like oval, cushion, and radiant diamonds typically produce the most sparkle.
Are fancy diamonds cheaper than round diamonds?
Yes. Fancy shapes usually cost less per carat because less rough diamond is lost during the cutting process.
Explore Fancy Diamond Engagement Rings
Fancy diamond shapes offer a unique way to express your personal style. From the brilliance of oval diamonds to the elegance of emerald cuts, each shape tells its own story.
Visit Skeie’s Jewelers to explore our collection of engagement rings and fancy-cut diamonds, or speak with one of our specialists to find the perfect diamond for you.
